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Marquesas

Gate D29 · French Polynesia · September 2024

Marquesas

The islands of men

GateD29
TimeSEP 24
SectionDestinations
QueerCommunity
StatusBoarding

The Marquesas Islands are known for their rugged landscape, rich culture and fascinating history. Part of French Polynesia, they are an ideal destination for adventurers who want to travel off the beaten track. DISPLAY set out to explore this remote pearl of the South Pacific.

The journey to the Marquesas isn’t for anyone in a hurry: a flight from Tahiti takes you to the heart of this archipelago of twelve islands, only six of which are inhabited. The approach to Nuku Hiva, the largest island, impresses with views of the jagged coastline and the green, pine-covered mountains. No luxury awaits you here, but pure nature and the authenticity of French Polynesia.

The Marquesas are known as the “islands of men”. This goes back to the historical importance of men in traditional Polynesian society, where they held central roles in rituals and social structures. The locals are proud of their Polynesian traditions, which are reflected in art, music and dance. After centuries of oppression, people are finding their way back to their roots. Tattoos, worn above all by men, are everywhere and tell life stories — as with Maui, a 20-year-old guide whose body is covered in traditional tattoos telling the stories of his ancestors.

Marquesas

Each inhabited island has its own character. Nuku Hiva, the economic centre, offers hikes through dense rainforest to waterfalls and ancient tikis – the stone deities of the Polynesians. A hike to the remote Anaho Valley, reachable only on foot or by boat, is rewarded with an untouched beach and crystal-clear water.

The tikis of Hiva Oa

Marquesas

On Hiva Oa, the second-largest island, lies the grave of the famous painter Paul Gauguin, who spent his last years here. The island is also home to the largest tikis in the entire Pacific. Particularly impressive is the Tiki Makai in the Puamau archaeological complex, considered the largest tiki outside Easter Island. These ancient stone figures, which often depict gods or mythical ancestors, radiate a special, mysterious aura — and be careful: don’t treat them disrespectfully! Not every tiki brings luck; some of the sites are cursed.

The Marquesans are known for their warm hospitality. Homestays and small guesthouses offer not only accommodation but also deep insights into the islanders’ daily lives. Even though the islands have no LGBTQ+ scene, the relaxed and inclusive attitude makes them a safe and welcoming destination. In the raw beauty of the Marquesas, you are not just a traveller but part of a living tradition that has endured for generations.

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Marquesas

A report by Carlo Crameri and Raphael Hadad

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Marquesas
Marquesas

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