The South Sea island of Tahiti is a place of longing where queer travellers are welcome. No other island in the South Pacific welcomes them so openly and warmly.
Whether you’re travelling romantically or adventurously, couples can experience plenty here – not only above but also below the water. Dive down and discover a colourful world of corals, mantas and dolphins. On the coast, you chill out on powder-white beaches and in calm lagoons, and on small boats you enjoy the gentle rocking of the sea. And above the water, tropical trails, lush green slopes and views that take your breath away are waiting.
Sunset dive in the Tiputa Pass
The ride out in the inflatable boat is the first adventurous test. The waves splash in your face, you taste the salt water on your lips. The coast of Rangiroa drifts slowly past as we head for the Tiputa Pass.
It would be more relaxing out there with Carlo right now, it flashes through my mind. My colleague is out on a catamaran, snorkelling in the lagoon. Later he will tell of a school of large mantas, of shimmering reflections of light on the seabed. I, on the other hand… am up for the dive. The mask is on tight. The fins are ready. At a signal from my dive buddy, I let myself fall backwards into the fascinating blue.
Beneath the surface, everything is different, magical. No sound. I hear only my breathing and feel my heart beating. Barracudas and a dozen grey reef sharks glide calmly past. The current in the pass carries us along. No chance of controlling it. My adrenaline level rises. Diving here demands concentration. Respect. And yes, humility too.
Then – a shadow detaches itself from the blue and shoots towards us. It’s a dolphin. It is so close that I can feel its curious gaze. For a few seconds, we share the same space, the same speed, the same rhythm of breathing. And then it moves on.
Back at the jetty, Carlo is waiting. He is beaming. We swap our stories. Later we sit together barefoot on the quay. The sun disappears behind the palms. The wind smells of coconut and seaweed. And somewhere, someone is cheerfully strumming a ukulele.
The green heart of Tahiti
Lift your gaze from the beach up to the lush green mountainsides and you soon notice: the island’s interior tells a completely different story from the sea. A quieter, denser one. One that can only be experienced on foot.
We set off early. Our goal: the Fautaua Valley, just a few minutes above Papeete. The path leads past mossy ruins from the colonial era, over slippery stones and through shallow streams. After two hours of trekking, everything suddenly turns light and bright: a waterfall plunges 130 metres into the depths. There is no barrier. Anyone who wants to can jump into the refreshingly cool pool.
But Tahiti’s trails offer more than views and nature. Many paths lead past ancient marae, sacred places of the Polynesians where rituals took place and ancestors were honoured. Thanks to the local guide, a hike becomes a story: of myths, of spirits in the wind, of plants that heal or protect.
The islands of Tahiti have a wide range of dive centres offering courses and guided dives for beginners and advanced divers. Tahiti is committed to protecting marine life: many dive bases work in an environmentally friendly way and cooperate with organisations dedicated to preserving the reefs.
A report by Raphael Hadad · Photos: Raphael Hadad and Bernd Beaussier
